Summary
This innovative, easy-to-read book explores the practicalday-to-day realities and technicalitiesof the garment-making businesswholesale, manufacturing, designing, and private-label product development. It explains, step-by-step,how tohandle a real, roll-up-the-sleeves job in today's fashion industry."Insider" perspectives, wisdom from the "pros" , detailed illustrated procedures, and several "hands-on" exercises for real-world practice contribute to the making of this valuable self-help guide. Chapter coverage includes: cost and specification sheets, workboards, "triangle of balance" tool, customer demographics and psychographics, fabric knowledge basics, global trade, and apparel on-line.For anyone looking for not only the skillsbut the means to acquire themfor a successful career in the garment-making industry today.
Table of Contents
Preface for Students and Others Interested in Fashion |
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ix | |
Preface for Instructors |
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xii | |
Acknowledgments |
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xiv | |
Unit 1 The Fashion World versus the Real World |
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1 | (104) |
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So You Want to Work in the Fashion Business? |
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3 | (11) |
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Segments of the Garment Industry: Where the Jobs Are |
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14 | (25) |
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Changes in Today's Fashion Industry---Whose Label Is It Anyway? |
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39 | (18) |
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The Customer: Different Generations, Different Motivations, Different Clothes |
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57 | (13) |
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How Much Do Customers Spend and What Sense of Style Do They Have? |
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70 | (18) |
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Where Are Customers Buying Their Clothes? |
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88 | (17) |
Unit 2 The Product Development Process |
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105 | (174) |
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Research: Putting Out Fashion ``Feelers'' |
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107 | (39) |
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Fashion's Triangle of Balance: You Can't Sell Granny Bloomers to Baby Boomers! |
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146 | (9) |
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Building the First Design Ideas: Don't Lose That Thought! |
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155 | (16) |
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Going from Planning to Costing: Squeezing Out Those Pennies |
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171 | (30) |
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Line Building: From Specs to Samples |
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201 | (34) |
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Production: Go, Team, Go! |
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235 | (23) |
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Selling the Line: How Final Is the Sale? |
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258 | (14) |
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Three Seasons at Once: Spinning Plates on Poles |
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272 | (7) |
Unit 3 Technology, Politics, and Geography: Where in the World Is All This Going? |
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279 | (56) |
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281 | (23) |
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The Politics of Apparel Importing: Rewards and Punishments |
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304 | (9) |
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The Geography of Tomorrow's Manufacturing or ``I Have to Change Planes in Kuala Lumpur?'' |
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313 | (12) |
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Manufacturing in the United States: Is There a Future? |
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325 | (10) |
Unit 4 So, After All This, Is the Fashion Business for You? |
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335 | (32) |
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Apparel Business in the 21st Century: Where Will the Opportunities Lie? |
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337 | (8) |
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Garmento Lingo: Talk Like an Insider |
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345 | (7) |
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Words of Wisdom from Industry Pros |
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352 | (15) |
About the Author: Maurice J. Johnson |
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367 | (2) |
About the Author: Evelyn C. Moore |
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369 | (2) |
Index |
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371 | |
Excerpts
PREFACE FOR STUDENTS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN FASHION by Maurice J. Johnson HERE'S WHAT THIS BOOK IS NOT It is not a fashion history book, from Louis XIV to Madonna. It is not "How to Design a Pleated and Matched Plaid Skirt." It is not an examination of the rise and fall of the U.S. department store. It is not a technician's guide to patternmaking, grading, and cutting.There are several really excellent textbooks that cover the above in great detail. We will give you just enough information on these subjects to interest, not confuse, you. HERE'S WHAT THIS BOOK IS An attempt to give you the real flavor of the garment making industry. Hopefully a "reality check" about what a job feels like, especially in wholesale, manufacturing, designing, and private label product development. More jobs of the future, including buying, will require a working knowledge of the technicalities of apparel product development. A general but practical "how to" when it comes to developing and producing a line of clothing.Unit 1 explores the fashion industry today. Potential job seekers must have creativity and talent, and they must also be able to recognize and respond to the wants and needs of customers. How does the industry identify and address different customers?Unit 2 examines the development of garments by following the process of private label product development, step by step. Our attempt is not just to show you the steps but to show how to do these steps, from the first concept through the retail marketplace. We have beefed up the section on research so that students can easily pursue areas of specific interest. We also let you in on a few of the dark little secrets that exist in the wholesale-retail relationship.Unit 3 focuses on the scale and fixture of manufacturing. It is one thing to make one blouse for one season. It is another to do it on the mass scale that is required today. Incredible new developments in computerized designing, patternmaking, and production have already changed the industry radically. What's coming next? What's all this talk about offshore sourcing, and where will goods be manufactured in the 21st century? Will there still be an industry in the United States?Unit 4 includes some inside tips for your fixture career. From decades of experience in the industry, we're going to predict where some new opportunities might lie--for your new career or maybe even for your own new business. So that you will also sound like a pro, we have given you a brief glossary of terms that you're going to want to keep. Fashion jobs don't come with interpreters. Finally, we asked some veterans to share their sage advice with you.This book will give you the big picture with sufficient detail to be able to Decide if this field is right for you, with an up-close look at apparel product development Put subsequent specialized fashion and garment construction courses into perspective Serve as a commonsense (rather than glamorized) foundation for a fashion career Help students with the transition from the world of school (known) to the world of business (unknown).Best of all, this book has not been written by just two people. You'll hear many different voices. We have been honored by support and input from all corners of the industry. Each chapter includes messages from members of the country's largest stores, leading manufacturers, and design teams. These are firms you'll recognize, such as Liz Claiborne, Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo, Pamela Dennis, Saks, and Marshall Field's.Above all, this book should help all readers (students, industry members, and those simply curious) sense where the intense, creative, and often funny garment business is going in the 21st century, rather than where it has been.Personal note.